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2009 Lake County Sauvignon Blanc

“Carmen Miranda’s hat.”

Remember Carmen and her fantastically fruit-festooned hat—all pineapples and grapes and tropical fruit you don’t even know the names for? That’s the ’09 Sauvignon Blanc. In spades.

On the nose, pineapple sambas ahead of grapefruit, passion fruit, and guava

. There might be a smidgen of orange blossom or maybe citrus rind. Then, the pineapple comes back again. Did we mention pineapple? You get the picture.

Pineapples make an appearance in the mouth, too, with grapefruit. Nothing sweet, but very rich. The mouthfeel is soft and plush; there’s nothing austere about this Sauvignon. There’s a lemon on the finish plus some lingering minerality—just a little flintiness makes it interesting.

This Sauv pairs with so many wonderful things—rich cheeses, shellfish, white pizzas with cheese, egg, and a sprinkle of pancetta, grilled chicken with spices, and black olives, just to mention a few. Good baguette and a little salted butter or soft brie make a simple, satisfying snack. It’s killer with spicy Asian food.

David Weiss grows Sauvignon Blanc in a small, certified organic vineyard just north of Kelseyville, part way up Clear Lake. The family who owns the land still lives right in the middle of the vineyard. At harvest, the air is full of citrus and tropical fruit, and the tiny block where our particular fruit grows is even more aromatic. On the misty fall mornings when Sauvignon Blanc is harvested, perhaps Carmen’s spirit slips through the vines. We can certainly smell her hat.